It’s the time of year when the weather and roads are foul and if I don’t have to go outside I don’t. Scrunched up under a blanket on the sofa with hot tea and bakery biscuits I was watching the BBC’s Victorian Farm series, taking in the whole turn of the year in one go. Ending with the summer episode, I nearly spluttered my tea when the cast tried their hands at bee-keeping. Because the same nineteenth century kit that they were using – box skeps, knife and honey-extractor – was pretty much the exact same as my Granddad was using a good century later. Or to be precise, that my Granddad and me were using a century later as I was very much involved in his hobby beekeeping.
The skeps were a bit like old-fashioned filing cabinets, with oblong wooden frames that hung down in rows like files. These frames held a paper-thin sheet of beeswax impressed with hexagons for the bees to build their honeycomb on. The skeps also held things like a board that partitions the hive (so the queen doesn’t lay her eggs in the honey you eat) but mostly they were filled with these frames. Bees will make more honey than the hive needs to overwinter, so in midsummer the beekeeper lifts out the frames for a harvest, carefully brushing off any bees. Granddad used a goose-wing; the Victorians on the farm would have been pleased with his gentle economies.
I remember the honeycomb weight of the frames, the amber cells capped off with wax. Granddad took his knife warmed in a jug of hot water, and sliced off the comb tops, which I ate; they were rich with honey and the wax chewy and delicious. Then the frames went into the honey extractor, a metal drum with a cradle inside that held four frames at a time, standing upright against the drum. A lid went on top with a handle, and when the handle was whirled the cradle spun round, the force throwing the honey off the frames inside the drum. As I remember it, I spent ages winding the handle to spin the combs round but really it was Granddad who did most of the work. A tap at the bottom of the drum let the liquid honey pour into a container, then to be filtered, jarred and sold.
Some of the honey he made into mead, and all year the demi-johns sat under the rafters in his loft, where I would inspect them, hoping to see the quiet bubbles rise, slowly, one at a time. Even as quite a young child I had tiny sips of mead at Christmas, preferring the sweetness to the thimbleful glasses of ginger wine that were also allowed. I learned then that mead was special, a drink for festivities. Of course the idea of its specialness has a much longer tradition than this, and I will probably be researching some of it. But that is work, and this is a foul weather Sunday in December. Easier to read through Gawain again, and where in those Christmas feasts “men might be merry when addled with mead but each year, short-lived, is unlike the last and rarely resolves in the style it arrived.”
Flicking through my precious copy of the Reader’s Digest ‘Folklore, Myths and Legends of Britain’, I find surprisingly no reference to mead, although it’s more frequently in Welsh folklore. According to Marie Trevelyan, an “old charm for jaundice was to put a gold coin at the bottom of a pewter mug, fill it with clear mead, and ask the patient to look into it without drinking any. This was to be done while repeating the Lord’s Prayer nine times over without a mistake.” As metheglyn, mead flavoured with herbs, she also says that it was the main ingredient in a nineteenth century love-drink, with a little something extra slipped in that the old people who told her refused to name. It was consumed from a drinking horn and “was very pleasant, and people said the person who drank it would forget father, mother, heaven, earth, sun, and moon. A rich man in Glamorgan discovered the secret, and used it to obtain the love of a beautiful village maiden, who ever after followed him everywhere. An eyewitness said : ” It was pitiful to see her following him. She would run through pools, over hedges, up hill and down dale, only to catch sight of him. At last he got tired of her, and wished to undo the spell, but could not ; and eventually, worn out with mental anguish, the poor girl died.”
It’s perhaps unsurprising that metheglyn (and mead) turns up more frequently in Welsh folklore, as it has a central place in the story of the Mabinogion. King Lludd fills a cauldron of the stuff and puts to sleep two fighting dragons, that are then buried and it’s said that as long as they sleep the British isles will be free of plague. Echoes of its magical properties come from over the border in Buckinghamshire, where Will Stanton in ‘The Dark is Rising’ (Susan Cooper) is offered a glass of it before he receives the book of grammarye that will magically impart all the knowledge he needs. He drains the glass and at the bottom has a vision of brown-robed men, monks, who made it. I was thrilled about this connection between the drink that Granddad made and metheglyn when I first read The Dark is Rising, although Granddad never attempted a flavoured version and nothing very magical happened after I drank it. Perhaps I should try again this Christmas.





























































































































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